The crocodile, out after many days of
unseasonal rain, was intent on taking in the winter sun. Lounging on the banks of the Chambal River, wide open mouth displaying its impressive
dentition to advantage, it appeared not to notice the four of us in a motorboat
50 yards away. The other denizens of the Chambal Reserve Forest were not so
disdainful of human presence. The gharials, sprawled on tiny riverine islands,
appeared to be very shy of human company, their scary spiny backs
notwithstanding. Not that the humans were feeling very companionable towards
them, either! The bar headed geese seemed a better bet as friends but cackled
away when I tired to catch a closer picture. The ibis and cormorants were
self-absorbed and a pair of pied kingfishers, in fashionable monochrome
birthday suits, posed on the waterfront much like some other swim-suited two legged creatures…
The waters of the Chambal River, about half
an hour out of Jarar, are clean and
clear, unlike most Indian rivers. Its banks are clear of any signs of human
habitation, save a few temple flags. The view of the sky merging with the river
in the horizon, undulating clean hills
on both sides, was meditative. We came away feeling that we would definitely be
back.
This was the river safari conducted by the
Chambal Safari Lodge at Jarar, about 60 km from Agra. About 4 hours from our
home in Noida, via Shikhohabad, this is the estate of an old zamindar family,
converted into a lodge. Clean and green, the lodge was a relaxing getaway. We
sat on the front verandah of our cottage while jungle babblers argued
raucously, peacocks flaunted their plumage and bats generally hung around,
waiting for nightfall. The back of the room / cottage had a little sit-out
with charpoys, made special by sightings of a purposeful jungle hare.
The Yamuna too flows close by and we
visited the temple complex at Bateshwar, one of Shiv ji’s dhams. A
cluster about 50 of whitewashed temples
by the river bank, the complex is an impressive sight. It plays host to the country’s second largest
animal fair every year and an aarti on
the banks of the Yamuna every full moon night, both tempting enough to plan a second trip to these parts. An added
attraction was the large number of water birds in the Yamuna.
We were there in the end of January and the
field were green with the wheat crop. The prototype for Laxman’s common man was
likely created here, a coat with dhoti being the preferred attire of middle
aged men, while a muffler/ shawl/blanket covering one’s ears seemed to be a
necessary accoutrement, thanks to the chilly winter. This was definitely cow
country, which of course made it cow-dung country too! We are very far from
Swachh Bharat ….
Meals at the lodge were sumptuous and
delicious; breakfasts were average, however. The staff and hosts, latter living
onsite, were gracious. The in-house naturalists were knowledgeable and enthusiastic and we enjoyed getting to see all the birds around, storks,
spoonbills, brahminy shelducks, herons, egrets etc.
We came back from our short break rested and at peace with the world.
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