A Safari on the Chambal

The crocodile, out after many days of unseasonal rain, was intent on taking in the winter sun. Lounging  on the banks of the Chambal River, wide  open mouth displaying its impressive dentition to advantage, it appeared not to notice the four of us in a motorboat 50 yards away. The other denizens of the Chambal Reserve Forest were not so disdainful of human presence. The gharials, sprawled on tiny riverine islands, appeared to be very shy of human company, their scary spiny backs notwithstanding. Not that the humans were feeling very companionable towards them, either! The bar headed geese seemed a better bet as friends but cackled away when I tired to catch a closer picture. The ibis and cormorants were self-absorbed and a pair of pied kingfishers, in fashionable monochrome birthday suits, posed on the waterfront much like  some other swim-suited two legged creatures…

The waters of the Chambal River, about half an hour out of Jarar,  are clean and clear, unlike most Indian rivers. Its banks are clear of any signs of human habitation, save a few temple flags. The view of the sky merging with the river in the horizon, undulating clean  hills on both sides, was meditative. We came away feeling that we would definitely be back.

This was the river safari conducted by the Chambal Safari Lodge at Jarar, about 60 km from Agra. About 4 hours from our home in Noida, via Shikhohabad, this is the estate of an old zamindar family, converted into a lodge. Clean and green, the lodge was a relaxing getaway. We sat on the front verandah of our cottage while jungle babblers argued raucously, peacocks flaunted their plumage and bats generally hung around, waiting for nightfall. The back of the room / cottage had a little sit-out with charpoys, made special by sightings of  a purposeful jungle hare.

The Yamuna too flows close by and we visited the temple complex at Bateshwar, one of Shiv ji’s dhams. A cluster  about 50 of whitewashed temples by the river bank, the complex is an impressive sight.  It plays host to the country’s second largest animal fair  every year and an aarti on the banks of the Yamuna every full moon night, both tempting enough to plan a  second trip to these parts. An added attraction was the large number of water birds in the Yamuna.

We were there in the end of January and the field were green with the wheat crop. The prototype for Laxman’s common man was likely created here, a coat with dhoti being the preferred attire of middle aged men, while a muffler/ shawl/blanket covering one’s ears seemed to be a necessary accoutrement, thanks to the chilly winter. This was definitely cow country, which of course made it cow-dung country too! We are very far from Swachh Bharat ….

Meals at the lodge were sumptuous and delicious; breakfasts were average, however. The staff and hosts, latter living onsite, were gracious. The in-house naturalists were knowledgeable and enthusiastic and we enjoyed getting to see all the birds around, storks, spoonbills, brahminy shelducks, herons, egrets etc.

We came back from our short break rested and at peace with the world.